Saturday June 1st
I ARRIVED HERE IN NEWQUAY, CORNWALL TODAY, JUNE 1ST 2024 TO EXPLORE, SEE THIS BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY AND RELAX AND DO SOME READING AND WRITING.
SO FAR, I HAVE HAD SOME MISHAPS BUT NONE TOO HORRIBLE THAT THEY WILL DEFLATE MY JOY OF BEING HERE.
MY FLIGHT FROM DUBLIN TO NEWQUAY WAS DELAYED ANOTHER HOUR ON TO OF A 3 HOUR LAYOVER IN DUBLIN. I DO LIKE BEING IN AN AIRPORT TO PEOPLE-WATCH AND SEE PLANES TAKE OFF BUT THE 4 HOURS LAYOVER IN DUBLIN AIRPORT WHICH IS A VERY CONFUSING AIRPORT EVEN ON A GOOD DAY, WAS IN A LARGE ROOM MOSTLY FILLED WITH TRAVELERS. THE ROOM WAS JUST THAT. THERE WAS NO TRAFFIC TO OBSERVE OR UNIQUE PEOPLE WALKING BY OR EVEN A PLACE TO GET A DRINK. IT WAS JUST A ROOM OVERLOOKING AN OCCASSIONAL BUS TO BRING TRAVELERS TO THEIR PROPELLER DRIVEN JET. SO IT WASN'T AS MUCH FUN AS SAY WAITING IN A NEW YORK OR BOSTON AIRPORT.
NEWQUAY AIRPORT IS QUITE SMALL BUT THE WALK FROM THE BAGGAGE TERMINAL TO THE EUROCAR RENTAL PLACE WAS NOTHING BUT GRUELING; DRAGGING MY SUITCASE ABOUT 1/4 MILE OUTSIDE TO THE CAR LOT. BUT I GOT A CUTE LITTLE MERCEDES 200, AUTOMATIC. THE SHIFTER IS VERY WEIRD THOUGH. IT IS WHAT COULD BE THE BAR TO TURN ON THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS. IT TOOK ME A FEW MINUTES TO REALIZE THAT THIS WAS REALLY THE SHIFTER.
STAY LEFT....STAY LEFT.....STAY LEFT.....
I'M OK WITH THIS UNTIL I HAVE TO LOOK HOW TO ADJUST MY SEAT WHILE STAYING LEFT AND LOOKING AT THE GPS TO FIND HOW TO GET TO THIS HOTEL. IT TOOK ME SEVERAL TRIES AND A FEW HAIRY AND GRUELING ATTEMPTS TO BACKUP ON A VERY NARROW PATHWAY ON THE CLIFF-SIDE WITH SOME BEACHGOERS WALKING UP FROM THE BEACH.
I TRIED TO CALL THE HOTEL IN VAIN. VERIZON GOT ME AGAIN. THE FINAL ATTEMPT BROUGHT ME DRIVING DOWN THIS NARROW ROAD AGAIN WITH HAIRPIN TURNS AND MORE WALKERS. ONCE HERE I THINK I'LL STAY IN TONIGHT AND TOMORROW TAKE THE CHALLENGE TO WALK BACK UP TO MY CAR AND DRIVE UP THE VERY STEEP AND CURVY ROAD TO START A NEW DAY OF DISCOVERY.
WITH MY FLOOR TO CEILING SLIDERS OPEN, THE OCEAN IS QUITE LOUD. BUT IT'S JUST WHAT I WANTED AND WITH SWEATSHIRT ON BECAUSE IT'S A BIT CHILLY, I WILL ENJOY THE SUNSET COMING UP IN A FEW HOURS.
176 steps. That's what I had to do to get from the beach here up to the main st. I went into a rowdy place where a soccer game was being played. And I know how much the Brits love their soccer. My knees!! But I did it and I will do it again tomorrow after I walk up to the car park, get into my car and find a store to get the right converter. I was soooo sure I bought the right one....2 prong. But no. I need the 3 prong.
MONDAY JUNE 3 2024
THIS MORNING I HEADED OUT AFTER HAVING A BREAKFAST OF SOUR BREAD TOAST, 2 POACHED EGGS AND SMASHED AVOCADO WITH A SIDE OF FRESH FRUIT AND A COFFEE. WHEN I ORDER COFFEE, I SAY COFFEE WITH CREAM. THEY SAY WE ONLY HAVE MILK BUT WHAT THEY BRING ME IS A VERY STRONG COFFEE WITH CREAM SO THICK IT HARDLY POURS OUT INTO THE CUP. IT'S HEAVY CREAM. NOT MISTAKENLY. BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS. IT CHECKS ALL THE BOXES.
SO I HEAD UP TO PORT ISAAC. THE GPS SENDS ME A BACK WAY ON STREETS THAT WERE NOT MEANT TO DRIVE ON. IT WAS DIFFICULT AT BEST. BUT I DID IT AND BREATHED A BIG SIGH OF RELIEF WHEN I FOUND A CAR PARK AND HEADED TOWARDS TOWN ON THE FOOTPATH. TO SAY THIS TOWN IS CHARMING IS SUCH AN UNDERSTATEMENT. THERE WERE MANY TOURISTS AND TOURIST SHOPS BUT I CHOSE TO GO TO THE PUB ON DOC MARTIN CALLED THE GOLDEN LION. I SAT OUTSIDE RIGHT ON THE BAY AND HAD THE CRISPIEST FISH AND CHIP I HAVE EVER HAD. HANDS DOWN. AND A CHERRY CIDER.
WHAT I EXPERIENCED FOR THE NEXT 5 HOURS IS NOTHING SHORT OF CRAZY, MIRACULOUS, ABSOLUTELY NUTS! I FOUND CAMELOTS CASTLE, WENT IN, CHECKED IT OUT AND THEN PUT BODMIN MOOR ON THE GPS. THE ROADS IT TOOK ME ON WERE NOTHING MORE THAN FARM DIRT AND GRAVEL ROADS MEANT ONLY FOR FARM TRACTORS. THE ONLY PEOPLE I MET WAVED HELLO TO ME (I THINK) BUT NO ONE TRIED TO STOP ME. ACTUALLY I ONLY MET 2 PEOPLE AND A HORSE WHO DECIDED TO WALK IN THE ROAD TOWARDS ME. I REALLY DIDN'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. THERE WAS NO ROOM FOR ME TO PULL OFF ANYWHERE SO I JUST STOPPED AND HE STOPPED AND LOOKED AT ME FOR A WHILE AND THEN WALKED UP AGAINST MY CAR ON THE SIDE AND PAST ME. THIS WAS AFTER I MET A CLOSED FARM GATE THAT WOULDN'T ALLOW ME THRU. SO AFTER A 10 POINT TURN, I HEADED back the way I came. that's when I met the horse. then onto the highway I went. Suddenly I see up ahead lots of break lights and people waving their arms to slow down. Now this was a major highway with cars going 60-70mph. A dog was running up the highway and no one could stop him. I got around him after a while, sure he must have run himself to exhaustion till people could catch him. He looked like a border collie/shephard mix. I never did get to see Bodmin Moor but pictures looked like a mini Stonehenge. Maybe I will try another day.
EVERYONE has a dog here. Tourists all have a dog and they are all allowed in the shops and restaurants.
My little Mercedes did good for me today. A few scrapes on the tires and a few brushes with the hedgerows but when I picked it up, they said not to worry, there were already scrapes and scratches on it.
I got the last parking spot in the car park here at the hotel which affords me a little less hike down to my room but I may just combat those stairs a little later. feels so good when you get to the top.
Tuesday June 4th
I discovered Fistral Beach today. It's just next door to where I'm staying. In fact at low tide I could walk around the cliffs outside my room to get here. Fistral beach is regarded at one of the top 10 beached in the UK. How lucky am I? It really is beautiful. I tried to stand outside on the beach but the wind was just too strong. The strong wind did not deter many dog owners with playing fetch with their very excited dogs, some would fetch, and dig, dig, dig and bark to be thrown the ball over and over. A surfing school was going on here too with many in wet suits trying their hand at surfing. The waves are small but a good place to start.
I discovered the town of Bodmin today. Lovely. Not too touristy like Newquay but lovely old buildings of brick and stone. I discovered again not to order anything with 'bacon' like the BLT I ordered for lunch. It's really ham. Good but not bacon as we know it. I hoped to find someone in Bodmin to talk to about Bodmin Moor. The getleman at the lunch place was helpful as I headed out to discover new roads. My GPS took me once again through farms with a few stone farmhouses; one with a few peacocks running around being curious about my car. Beautiful. Again the roads were probably built just for farm tractors. This is why so many cars are all scraped up on each side. I think I added some new scrapes to mine. The tricky part of these roads is meeting someone coming head on. Someone had to give in and either back up or pull against the hedgerow. Again for me in my car, setting off several bells and whistles, warning me of being too close to something. I believe I did drive through part of the Bodmin Moors. I think some of the interesting things to see are just too far off the roadway. One more time...Just one more try at getting the heart of this interesting land form. Tomorrow I'll discover yet another new area. I think my car will be getting about 1,000 miles for a tank of gas which is about $6/gallon. I know, unbelievable. Right?
Wednesday June 5th
Today was by far the most difficult driving experience EVER!!
The GPS in my car took me to downtown St. Ives on pedestrian walkways, filled with tourists and dogs and children. There are no words to describe how unbelievably close I had to drive to EVERYTHING. I cannot believe I didn't scrape the sides of my car at all. I did although get the sides of my right, front tire though. A few times. The town of St. Ives is a beach town so there were many tourists and hundreds of art galleries. Take away the tourists and the town is one of the most charming towns I've been to.
Parking was a disaster. There were very small car lots, all were full. I waited for a spot to open only to have someone who just drove in at the exact second to take it. The beach was very beautiful and the Tate museum right on the water was enjoyable. I hiked up the hill to the chapel where there were only a few people so that was probably the most enjoyable part of my few hours in St. Ives.
Penzance was just 10 miles south of St. Ives, also a coastal town so I was then on my way, choosing my own route out of town to make life a lot easier. Penzance had a huge harbor filled with a few fishing and sailing boats. I just drove through the town using the road right on the water and on my way to Lands End. The coastal road stops at Lands End with a small village with a few shops and a few kid-friendly activities. The ride from Penzance to Lands End was perfect. All farms and rolling hills and little traffic.
Back in St. Ives I bought a pasty filled with lamb, onions and spices. It was my 1st pasty here this trip.
All in all I did a lot of walking and hiking up and down hills but I guess not enough because when I got back to my hotel, I did the 176 steps up to get a bowl of carrot soup.
This blog is driving my crazy with the underlining and bold. So I'm quitting for the night. Maybe some added thought of today's craziness later.
Thursday June 6th
My intent today was to travel up North and reach Lynmouth which is over the border of Cornwall into Devon. I was up on that route a few years back and remembered the beauty of that whole area with it's many sheep herds grazing in the fields with the Bristol Channel in the backdrop. Across the Channel I could see WALES.
My trip started out with good intent but was swayed to travel closer to the ocean.So I took the coastal route, discovering many little towns, some not even on the map that were so remote, so quaint and beautiful, I forgot all about where I intended to end up. I passed a few areas where I saw houses with thatched roofs. The road leading to these remote villages was of course very narrow, only fit for a farm tractor. On a few occasions, I met with a large tractor coming towards me. And just like other times when a car is coming on a single road, one of the two must back up or if lucky pull over if room to let the other pass. On each of my approaches, the farmer stopped and backed up and gave me a friendly wave.
Bude was the first town I came upon with a channel and a little boat that served lunch and beyond that was the ocean. A large castle which I must return to so I can spend more time there was at the oceans' edge.
Kilkampton and Heartland were lovely little coastal towns, each with it's own unique cute features. The town of Clovelly had a large visitors center which I checked out but because of the lateness, I vowed to return to give more time to all this lovely town has to offer.
In a village called Welcombe was an eatery called the The Old Smithery, a 13th century home tuned restaurant/pub. Absolutely beautiful and worth returning to.
I don't want to keep repeating myself in this story in saying how beautiful this area is so I'll just mention some of the town's names and some things I was in awe of in traveling this area.
Magpies are here and their call is quite unique. Ravens, distinguished by their unusual call. Wild Foxglove (bright pink) line many roads. Queen Anne's lace is very abundant and in full bloom now. Wild onions, Columbine, Fuchsia and Cranesbill all in full bloom. I know this because I have the 'picture this' app on my phone, distinguishing plants and flowers in question.
On the trip back to the beach I was stuck in traffic because of the Royal Cornwall Event was happening. From what I could see, it was horses galore in competitions.
Tomorrow I plan to go straight up the coast with no diversions to the town of Minehead after visiting the town of Lynmouth to take the Cliff Railway there. Coming back I'll take a different route to skirt the once again Royal Cornwall Event on it's 2nd day of 3.
Well it's 10 o'clock pm and still light out. Dawn this morning was at 4:30am
Today was a really GOOD day even though I did not get to do a lot of walking. Hoping tomorrow will be a bit more active. Because yesterday was so active, I slept 7 hours straight. I haven't done that in years.
Friday June 7th
Today was going to be easier on the driving. I decided to go back to Bude to see the castle that I glimpsed but never went in the other day. I got caught up with some of the Cornwall Royal event even though I thought my route would't go near there....It did. The castle was built in 1830 by a man considered to be a genius in his time because of the innovative way the engineer and inventor, Sir Goldworthy Gurney built his house nestled between the sand dunes and Bude Canal. The canal was built in 1819 to transport sea sand for agricultural use. The castle was built along side the canal.
The castle now is set up into rooms to include art galleries with paintings and etchings from that Victorian era.
I had my first Cornish Pasty. The original flavor is steak and onion. It was very tasty.
From Bude I found a tea room further up the coast that I wanted to check out. There was a short part of the road that was almost impassable. The road was one car widths wide but the holes were big and deep. My poor car bottomed out a few times getting through. But it brought me to an unbelievable part of the coast with crashing waves on huge rocks. Very impressive.
From there I decided to skirt once again the Royal Cornwall Event and go to Bodmin to check out "The Hole in the Wall Pub". Website said it was open for food and drink but as is the case for many businesses, no one updates their website. Just drinks are served in this dark and wonderfully accessorized pub. I had a cider before making my way back to Newquay.
It was chilly today but nothing that my thermal couldn't cover. It was comparatively speaking a bit of an uneventful day as far as 'odd' things happening. I'll take it.
Tomorrow, maybe Lynmouth for the cliff railway and Minehead! Or....maybe wait for low tide around 10:30am and walk the beach around the cliffs to The Great Western Beach.
Saturday June 8th
Today was an absolute wonderful day spent driving down just a half hour from here to Charlestown. It's not even on the map. I do not know why. It was suggested by a waitstaff here at the hotel when I told her I was headed to St. Austell which is right next door to Charlestown. The road down to Charlestown was spectacular with its' farms and windy and twisty roads; not too many cars. In a few places was the one-car-wide road where again if a car comes towards you, someone's got to give in and either backup or if you have a few inches, move over. But once the town comes into view, you realize it's all worth it. I parked the car in a car park for the day and just started walking. On the farther side of the harbor was a footpath leading 'I don't know where'. So I just started walking along the top of the forested cliffs ladened with Holly trees, foxglove honeysuckle, blueberry juniper etc. I used my 'picture this' app on my phone to identify some unknown plants and flowers. And I used my 'Birdnet' app to identify bird calls. The European Wren was a predominate sound. Well this pathway was uphill all the way. And it went quite a ways. Not knowing where it was going to end, I met a few people who were happy to talk and tell which way to go at the top. I ended up in a lovely neighborhood with lovely gardens surrounding them. I contemplated waiting at a designated bus stop and take and end this journey an easier way. But being stubborn and not wanting to give up, I relented and kept walking. I came upon an old stone church with music playing. So in I went. Much to my surprise I walked in on a wedding taking place just as the priest was saying the words "And if there's anyone here who feels these two may not be joined in holy matrimony......" I quietly backed up and exited. Then further down the hill, in town, these 2 still in wedding gown and suit were having wedding pictures taken against a beautiful backdrop before exiting in their VW bus.
Before reaching town and in much need of something to drink, I came upon a little, cute cafe run by 3 teenaged girls. In I went and found good, cold drinks and a delicious grilled cheese and tomato (with tomato chutney and fresh tomato) on sourdough bread. Wonderful. In talking to the young girls, I found out that here when you finish your 3rd year of high school, at age 16, you then attend either 1 or 2 years of 'college' for free. And then on to a University----NOT free.
Being that I will be staying next door in St. Austell during the last days of this trip, I shall return to this cafe. Great find. There are many more things to see and do in Charlestown that I will return to do next week. The weather was perfect for this arduous walk. Cool breeze, sun and white puffy clouds.
Monday June 10th
Today was the day I chose to drive North up to Northern Devon on a road I can remember from a trip several years ago as one of the most beautiful I have ever traveled on. It was A39 up to Lynmouth and East on to Minehead. It was as if I was on top of the world, looking out and seeing Wales across the Bristol Channel. And between me in my car on a single lane road and the Bristol Channel was rolling hills of sheep. I met with very few cars so didn't have to back up and 'give way' but a couple of times. I can't write enough on the beauty of ths area and the solitude. It's as if you are in your own world.
First in Lynmouth was a cable car traveling down steep cliffs to the beach town of Lynton. Once down in Lynton you could spend time on the beach or in the little gift shops and eateries. Returning to Lynmouth, one could hop onto the returning cable car OR walk up the steps provided. On a better day (physically) I would have taken on this challenge. It was 1 1/2 miles up the stairs back to Lynmouth. Picture-taking was a must once back to Lymouth. I visited the Lynmouth museum with its' many recovered items from long ago. Interesting. Since I was a good 2 1/2 hours travel by car back to Newquay I decided to head back but not before traveling like I said on A39 East to Minehead. And again, can't write enough bout how wonderfully beautiful this whole area is.
Needless to say by the time I got back to Newquay I had my fill for the day of driving.
TUESDAY June 11th
Thinking today was Wednesday, the day to travel to London, I carefully packed what I was taking and what I would be leaving in my car to take on to my next stay in St. Austell. When I opened my computer and it said it was Tuesday, I was totally dumbfounded by my lack of what ever you want to call being totally oblivious to time and what day it was. So now I had a whole extra day to decide what I would be doing. Looking back (because it is now Thursday) I think I did not get into the car at all but just stayed here at the beach and when the tide was lowest, walked on the beach and around the high cliffs onto the neighboring beach, Western Beach. During high tide you cannot do this. So in thinking on the tides, it still amazes me how much the sea comes in and goes out every 12 hours. A totally relaxing day here at Tolcarne Beach.
Wednesday June 12th
Travel day. I was a little apprehensive today, figuring out the details of how and where to leave my car for 4 days at the train station in Newquay. I just happened to see online how to purchase a parking pass with this parking company with locations EVERYWHERE. So I followed its' directions and hopefully my car will not get towed. Of course I arrived the tiny train station in Newquay 1 1/2 hours early affording me much time to sit on the benches outside in the sun visited by a very friendly seagull. I knew if I gave him a piece of my oatmeal bar purchased for this 5 hour trip, he might attack me for more. So he just hung out inches from me, hoping. I had to actually look for the train track, not being obvious as most train stations. So the train originates new in Newquay with the end of the track right there where I sat. I've never been to a train station where it was the originating town. AND I was the only person here until about 15 minutes before the train was supposed to leave (11;18).
The trip took me through many cow farms, grazing or just lying in the fields in the sun. Some fields were cut and the cattle was standing in and amongst the cut grass, eating it Other fields had just been cut and bailed and wrapped in huge black plastic bags. Some sheep and some horse farms too on the way to London with about 14 stops along the way but NO changes. I was happy about that.
Arriving at Paddington Station in London was something in itself. Huge station but NOT as huge as Kings Cross Station, another station in London. I found my way out of the station which was no easy feat of it's own. I walked out just as a taxi was dropping someone off so I didn't have to flag one down. The taxi driver was a young woman originally from East Africa, living and driving in London for 7 years. So brave to take on as taxi driver in this city. Between the many people walking and the many bicyclists and motorbikes, driving as I could see was something I would never attempt. Bicyclists would bicycle between the cars, coming so close I don't know how I didn't witness anyone getting squashed. CRAZY!!! I was anxious to get to my hotel located in the theatre district which also was the CHINATOWN of London. Interesting. Although only 2 miles from the Pennington Station, it took a good 30 minutes to get to the Piccadilly West London Hotel. I arrived with just enough time to drop my suitcase off and get walking just 2 streets away from the Prince Edward Theatre to see "Michael Jackson the Musical" starting at 7:30. Siting one row from the front, and on the end afforded me a good seat for this amazing show. Of course "Michael" looked just like the real Michael and the singing by all the cast was perfectly in line with his original music. It was a packed house. Upon leaving the theatre around 10:30, the streets were slammed with other shows getting out at the same time. People shoulder to shoulder moving only inches at a time. I was anxious to find my way back to my hotel. This whole area is restaurant after restaurant offering any variety of food you could imagine and each one looked full of people.
I crashed in bed by midnight looking back at this evening in London as nothing short of CRAZY!!!
MAMA MIA at 3pm Thursday. Long walk to the Novella Theatre. We shall see if I can do it. My whole body is aching!!!
Thursday June 13th
Today was going to be MaMa Mi Day! Last I counted, this will be my 13th time to see this musical play live; second time in London alone. How lucky am I? But first I need to get on the "hop-on-hop-off" bus that'll take me all over London....twice. Traffic is insane and it's only Thursday...during the day. Between the taxis and the many, many buses and the absolutely out-of-their-blessed minds----bicyclists who swerve in and out of traffic, putting their lives in everyone else's hands.....I don't know who is crazier or braver. Then there's the occasional auto trying not to hit anyone or any thing. So trying to cross the street on what looks like a Hollywood movie set, is no easy feat either. First you have to watch for crosswalks with the appropriate signal telling you if you can cross. By the way hardly anyone obeys the signals. They walk across if they think they can make it. But, again what you have to watch out for is the very fast bicyclists, whipping around corners and cars and busses and not getting hit by them. Mayhem at its' finest. And London is a very 'young' town. You really don't see many elderly out on the street. They don't dare!
As I said before, where I am staying is the theatre district in the middle of China Town. Two lane roads, many of which are blocked off for construction reasons, doubling the traffic on the open lanes. All restaurants from any country you can think of. It's a foodie paradise. But how much can you really eat?
So, back on the bus. I saw all the biggies; Big Ben, St. Paul's Cathedral, the outside gates of Buckingham Palace where no one is allowed to get near, Parliament buildings etc.. But what I love seeing is the old architecture. The creativity and the artfulness they built their buildings back in the 1800's is simply nothing short of outstandingly beautiful. And then you have this monstrosity of a building nestled in and amongst these antiquities and there are no appropriate words. THE SHARD...A building shaped just like that...A SHARD.
I love London with all its' quirks and craziness. Nice place to visit for a few days to get culturalized and practice gastronomy at it's best but could never live here.
So back to the bus...In a taxi, I figured it takes about 1/2 hr. to go about 1 mile, at a cost of one pence (penny) per second after the initial 4 pound charge. On a bus, more time, less distance. I was actually a little nervous about getting to my bus stop at the Novello Theatre in time for the beginning of MaMa Mia. And I got on the bus at 11:30 am. I walked in, took my seat, no lines to wait in and the show started 5 minutes later. PERFECT.
It's a very, very happy musical, one which I will always look to see again and again.
When I got out, I decided to try get into 'THE GEORGE', one of, if not the oldest, still standing pub/eatery in London. It was just a short walk from the Novello, maybe 1/2 mile or so. Many people standing outside with drinks in their hand while inside people were packed in like sardines all with drinks. It looks like a popular place for people to come after work. It was about 6 pm. I managed to get in to ask if I could get something to eat. They had 'cod cheeks' on the menu which I have never had but always wanted to try. The answer to me getting a table was "maybe try in an hour". So I left and on my way back to my hotel found this amazing place, I think Greek. The food was outstanding and I sat next to two friends who have known each other for 30+ years; Andrew and Steve; both married with children on their 3 or so times per year they get to meet and have dinner. Andrew was from Birmingham and Steve from London. Very fun conversation about so many topics. I ordered lamb shank which was outstanding. It came with broccoli and cauliflower. And a cup of creamy lentil soup which I WILL be recreating at home soon.
Wonderful, busy day in London with absolutely nothing I would change.
Now I have to meander outside to see LA MISERABLES playing just down the street. But this entry is really for tomorrow. Friday. Incidentally....LA MISERABLES is the longest musical every played; 40 years and running and still a near sellout every day.
Friday June 14th
I had bought a ticket to see the "Van Gogh Experience" so of course I got there early and waited till 10 am when it opened. The building was an old brick warehouse that was gutted and turned into whatever art experience they set up for a certain time period. Right now it was Van Gogh. Using several rooms to display his works on canvas and printing and talking about his life, it was great. But then I walk into another room, maybe 2 1/2 stories high and floor to ceiling was his works. It was constantly moving and changing, including so many of his most popular art. Even the floor was moving sometimes with just sunflowers. And then the waterfalls started; flowing down the walls, covering the art. It was amazing. I took some videos with my phone because the magic of it is really hard to describe. Within that room were sparsely placed chairs and a few lounging chairs where you could sit for as long as you wanted. No crowds of people. No one suggesting you leave. Just a quiet place to experience Van gogh's artwork. It was so well worth coming here to this exhibition.
So then I picked up a bagel with smoked salmon; so typical of me, to eat in the cab back to my hotel area (theatre district) to check on a single ticket for Le Miserables. Although always almost sold out of each show for the past 40+ years, I was luck to find one at the end a row on the aisle. Perfect. The acoustics in all these theatres are such that no matter where you sit , you're going to hear perfectly.
Le Mis was done in book form and a move, both of which I am not familiar with so was not prepared to know what it was about. A quick GOOGLE brought me up to speed on the story because ALL the dialogue was sung and at times, difficult to understand.
The 3 hours flew by ending of course with a standing ovation several cast returning for more applauds. I would definitely go again to see it in the US.
Getting out from this theatre again was mayhem. crowds everywhere. Fortunately for me, my hotel was a very short walk away. Crazy city, not unlike New York but different; kind of all squashed together into like I said before "a movie set".
SATURDAY June 15th
Today was moving day. I was to leave London (sadly) , take a taxi to Pennington Station to return to Newquay, Cornwall.
With many thanks to my mom who always instilled in all of us to be EARLY, I followed in her foot steps and got to Pennington Station 2 hours early. Good thing! Someone approached me and asked if I needed any information. I told her what I had a ticket for. She said "oh that train has been canceled". I would have to take an earlier one with a change-over in PAR. Shit. I purposely booked this trip back to Newquay because there were no changeovers. Just straight through. OK. I can do this. On the next train I go within the next 15 minutes. After a couple of hours they announce this train was running 9 minutes late. Not too bad except my change in PAR was only 7 minutes. So on my phone I go, looking for a ticket from PAR to NEWQUAY. System wasn't working. So stress starts seeping in. I could imagine myself being stranded at the PAR station with no public transportation in site. Well, I couldn't change it but it seemed like this change bothered me more than in other trips where I had to improvise an unexpected situation. I blame everything on getting older. But NO. I have to stop doing that. I got this. Just about 20 minutes from PAR, they announce that they just spoke to the train engineer of the train going to PAR and she was going to wait being this train was late; also saying that because there were a few of us having to change trains, we would have to exit this train and hurry up and over the the other tracks. So now I knew exactly what to look for and what to do. Worrying did me NO good. It all worked out. And my car was where I parked it and with NO ticket.
Now I am at my next destination in St. Austell, just next door from Charlestown, the town I visited last week and vowed to return to. Yah!! I made it unscathed.
Sunday June 16th
CHARLESTOWN
I arrived here at the Cornwall Hotel and Spa thinking SPA, like HEALTH spa. It is NOT. I was thinking spa food....NOT. The only thing that makes this a spa is there is an indoor pool...good...And a sauna (dry) and a steam room. But I've only been here 1 night so I should reserve judgment till later. After my breakfast of a typical Cornish breakfast consisting of some sliced ham, a sausage, some sauteed mushrooms, a poached egg with a questionable looking yolk. It didn't smell like it was bad, it just didn't look right. I passed on that. And wherever I go and get 'hash browns' it is the same everywhere. It's a triangle of minced potato that was once deep fried and after ordering, reheated. Someone, somewhere has quite the market on these. They are exactly the same everywhere I go. Also a sad looking tomato. For fruit, there was canned peaches, canned grapefruit, stewed prunes and fresh melons in slices with the rind still on. Since breakfast is included, I'll stick to my 'fresh' fruit and yogurt and coffee. Oh...And... I had to ask for cream for the coffee even this was a buffet. And they had to go to the kitchen and bring me a pitcher of cream. It was good. Maybe I'll try the porridge tomorrow. See what they will do with that.
On to Charlestown
There was a museum I noticed last time in Charlestown that I went to today. It was all about SHIPWRECKS from all around the world. But mostly I wanted to see the exhibit about Shackleton's trip on the ENDURANCE to the South Pole in 1914. The curator at the entrance was a wealth of information on this subject. It inspired me so much I bought Ernest Shackleton's biography, "SOUTH" to read. After learning all I could at the museum I went for a typical Cornish Sunday Roast. I chose the veggie option. Too much meat this trip. It was good. Then I went down in the harbor, sat and watched the dogs playing in the water and 3 boys, ages around 13 or so jumping from the highest part of the barriers to the canal into the water. That was amusing.
It was a peaceful day with sun and clouds mixed, warm, maybe 60ish.....GOOD DAY
Monday June17th
MEVAGISSEY.
What a perfect little harbor town. It's only a 10 minute ride from my hotel and what a great find. Parking was in the car park just a short walk from all the shops downtown. It's definitely all tourists. Although with the many little fishing boats in the harbor, some probably go out and actually catch fish; although I did not, while I was there, see any fishing boats come in and unload fish. All around the harbor were little shacks selling different foods. Seating for these food places were on a first come, first serve basis, mostly on whatever open bench you could find to bring your 'box' lunch. I don't know what these business owners do on a rainy day. Most places served fresh fish done up all different ways. I place I chose was run by 2 ladies probably in their 50's. lovely as can be, and the menu they put together had a little twist on each item. The lunch I ordered had a piece of bass, a few scallops and a little piece of monk fish....not fried like most other places, but broiled and served with baked little yellow potatoes dressed with a lemon and caper mixed green salad. Outstanding! And I told them so. A few places had the typical fried Fish and chips and each looked like they had a huge piece of fish. That's the advantage of having people sitting outside on the sidewalks eating. You get to see how it all looks. Also a few Ice cream places boasting Cornish made ice cream. And then there was the pubs and taverns all located inside and around the harbor.
I went on a 45 minute boat ride with 6 others and didn't get nauseous from the movement at all! We took a nice ride in the sun all around the outside of the harbor, partially out in the open sea. AND.. one of the men on board was part of the Mevagissey Men's choir. So he stood up, asked everyone if they minded if he sang. Of course we did not. So he sang a lovely song which I recorded. So nice. I want to do this again. And I will.
Tomorrow I may go to the harbor town of LOOE or FOWEY.
I also have to visit The Eden Project and The Lost Gardens of Heligan.
Tuesday June 18th
Fowey (foy)
Today proved to be more difficult, physically, than any other day here so far. I drove to Fowey on the coast just a 10 minute ride by car. The pronunciation is FOY. Those Brits. It took 2 tries to find the car park. I saw people waiting to catch a bus to downtown Fowey so I knew it must be a difficult walk. I was brave and walked because well...it was all downhill. And I mean almost straight down. The harbor area was jam packed with antique shops and eateries and a lot of people. Almost everyone I talked to was from England. To go for a day or 2 to one of the ports, to sit in the sun, to go for a boat ride is a holiday for them. They use the word 'holiday' where we use the word 'vacation'. But we all understand each other.
I went on a small boat that took us (3) for a 45 minute ride around the harbor and partially up the River Fowey. Our Captain of the boat talked the whole way, pointing out landmarks and homes and a lot of stuff that I understood very little understanding. I didn't want to ask him to repeat, that I didn't understand what he just said because he would just repeat exactly what he just said that I didn't understand in the first place. But I enjoyed the trip. It was a very warm, sunny day and I got to see the shoreline from the water. Beautiful.
They still mine China Clay here in Cornwall and the factory that does it was on the shore that we passed. I did understand some of what the Captain was saying about the many uses of China Clay. I think it is labelled as a different name though. Like in the ingredient list of a product. It wouldn't say China Clay. It would be another name. So we all don't recognize the real name.
I had EXTREMELY crispy fish and chips and mushy peas. And the mushy peas were the best I've had so far.
I caught a ride in the van, taking me up to the car park. I just could not tackle hiking up that mountain. I had a wonderful day and I have the sore feet to show for it.
Wednesday June 19th
LOST GARDENS OF HELIGAN
What a place this was!!! It's just a very short drive from here;only took about 15 minutes to get there over road that, you know, pathways, through fields of just cut grasses.
The original house here was built in the early 13th century. It's is a little over 200 Acres with, at that time, just small gardens around the stone house. Over the years it was passed on to family members. But with the outbreak of WW1, it was lost and forgotten. In 1990 it was taken over and groomed to becoming Europe's largest garden restoration project. The gravel walkways bringing visitors up and down and in and out of all the areas including 'the jungle' are a plethora of ancient trees, wildflowers, even gardens with cultivated vegetables. There were areas with chickens and roosters, lambs, sheep, goats and a couple of pigs. And cows. My walking trip through the Lost Gardens took about 3 hours while stopping, taking closer looks and pictures and resting a bit from the uphill climbs. It is a place that every family with children (and dogs) would enjoy time and time again. I am quite sure I will revisit the Lost Gardens before leaving Cornwall.
Now it's time to put my feet up, read my book and fall asleep💤 Life is good.
Thursday June 20th
THE EDEN PROJECT
I headed off this morning for the Eden Project. What it is, is an abandoned clay pit that has been mined to its' capacity. Just raw earth sitting there. The Eden Project is basically a 'biome' city; domes filled with plants and trees from all over the world. The first biome I went into was a Rain Forest. There are 4 rain forests the project was duplicating complete with a waterfall, flowers and trees from a particular region. For example: Hawaii has huge rain forests. So Eden brought some of Hawaii's plants and trees to it's project and duplicated it's environment under cover (biome). And you get to walk through these 4 rain forests, reading along the way stories of these particular species of plants.
The second biome was from the Mediterranean. Also relocating plants from that area, all under cover. But this is much more than just a pleasant walk through some beautiful forests. It's a school of environmental learning. While I was there today I saw 2 school groups on tour. There is a wealth of information all through this project on how people can reverse CO2 carbons with the help of the sea, trees and plants. Although these 3 are not the major contributors of CO2, this project, with 7 more being built around the world, is educating us on how the earth can and is trying to rejuvenate itself.
I can imagine how this place must look from way up in the sky. Like maybe the future on Mars.
It was a lot of walking today but I would return to see this project again. Lovely day. NO meat served in any of the cafe's.
BUT NOW I MUST WRITE WHAT I DID LAST NIGHT:
I fell asleep reading about maybe 6pm. When I woke up and looked at the clock and saw it was 8 and still very light out, I thought I had slept all night into the next day. So I called down to the desk to ask what time breakfast was served until. She said 10:30. So I dressed, went down at 9 to the dining room, saw no breakfast there, asked where the breakfast was. She said 'right thru there'. I said 'I know. I come here every morning'. She said 'but it's 9 o'clock at night'. I thought I slept for 14 hours!Now I have a whole extra day.
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Quips: Instead of saying "how are you", they say "you alright?"
Ibuprofen is a controlled substance. You are only allowed to buy (2) boxes of 20 each visit. 200mg. cost 0.39cents each box.
My bed is so soft. How soft is it? I have to project myself to try to get as close to the middle as I can. 💤 Or else I'll slowly fall out of it.
At 10:30 pm, it still looks like daylight out and sunrise is around 4:30am
Friday June 21st LOOE
Looe is another port town approximately 24 miles from here. It took a little over an hour to get there being there is road construction along the way.
The parking was very easy unlike most other town with a short walk to the harbor. LOOE remains a working fishing village with a fishery right downtown. The buildings are kept old, not looking pretty like some villages. The first thing I came across when walking into town was a hot dog eatery, first I've seen in Cornwall. Next was an arcade with all kinds of games for the little ones. There were many pastry shops each selling homemade Cornish Pasties. This is not PASTRIES. It's PASTIES. There's a big difference. A Cornish Pasty is like a calzone only with many different fillings. I got one with curry potatoes. I sat and had a few bites, saving the rest for maybe later once I found a place to sit by the beach. This is by the way the first and only place where dogs are NOT allowed on the beach. It was a nice sized beach; very kid friendly. So I found an unoccupied bench and took out my pasty still wrapped in the wax paper bag and as I was holding it, before I had a bite, I was hit from behind and my pasty was taken by a thieving seagull. Within a second there were at least 8-10 more seagulls all around me, wanting my pasty. So....no more pasty😞. He actually dive-bombed into me.
I didn't really care that much for LOOE. Apart from the possibility of perhaps getting onto one of the outgoing fishing boats just to watch how they fish, there really wasn't much for me in the village of LOOE.
I had to make sure to leave in time to get back to my hotel for my scheduled foot massage at 4:30. Which meant I had to leave LOOE by 3:00 because it may take me up to an hour and a half to go the 24 miles.😓 BUT...The road from my hotel to LOOE was so gorgeous with the rolling hills of just cut grass and sheep and fields delineated by stone walls and shrubs, each a different shade of green or brown as its' neighbor.
This was the first rainy day in 3 weeks.
The foot massage was very good. And for dinner I am having my 2 yogurts from my fridge that I slipped into my purse at breakfast.😋
Everywhere I go, there is a sign for the road to BODMIN. I feel like I must return to the Bodmin Moor and get to Brown Willy, the highest point in the Moor. But that means driving through people's yards and driveways again.
SUNDAY June 23rd
Yesterday I didn't post anything about my day. Nothing funny or unusual happened. I returned to one of my favorite villages; Charlestown. It was a cloudy, not rainy day so I just walked around, way up to the top of the hill where I walked to before, just into the nice neighborhoods of Charlestown and stopped in to the church that I walked into last week while a wedding was taking place. Nothing was happening there today but I noticed how old the church must be. The floor was made of huge, thick stones and the smell was so old and musty. I think I shall have to return to Charlestown before leaving this area just to find out the age of that church. And I found tomato soup for lunch! Very hard to find soup here.
MEVAGISSEY
Today I went back to Mevagissey. It was where I found the best fish lunch and a boat ride. But today was Mevagissey Festival. Tons of people at the harbor side with eateries set up all along the sidewalk bordering the harbor. Tide was out. Harbor was clear of any water with a dozen or more boats sitting on their sides waiting for the tide to come in and prop them up. There was a live band of musicians playing and singing Fleetwood Mac as I came into the open area. I couldn't get near the stage, there were too many people, kids and dogs. The line to buy a ticket to get into another line to get food was way too long for me. So I kept walking to the place I ate before with the baked fish and roasted little yellow potatoes, hoping they'd be open and they were! I had a prawn and crab wrap with those little yellow potatoes and cole slaw. Yummy. There was absolutely NO place to sit. Way too many people. Too little benches. So I sat on the stone steps of the harbor where water would come up to when the tide is high. And it was starting to come in now. I looked up on my phone if Mevagissey had any bookstores. And they had one. Hurley's. Once I stepped in, I realized this was where I came into last week. The same person was running the store so we had a nice chat. She is a very unusual woman; not sure of her age. She again wore a headpiece like something you'd wear at a childs' party and a silky cape with wings over overalls. BUT she was well read; probably more so than anyone who ran a bookstore that I've been in. Her name was EMMA. I told her it was nice to be in a book shop run by some one who reads. I bought 2 books but will have to leave the one I finished back at the hotel OR return to Mevagissey and donate it to Emma for the book shop because she sells new and used books there. She had some really old looking books. I could have spent all afternoon there.
So it was a lovely day at MEVAGISSEY.
MONDAY June24th
Today I decided to take a 1 hour drive to Falmouth and visit the Pendennis Castle located at the Port of Falmouth. It was 1 of 16 castles built as strongholds by Henry VIII in the 16th century. It is located at the entrance of Carrick Roads, an estuary of the River Fal on the south coast of Cornwall just across from St.Mawes where a second castle was built also built to defend England against it's enemies, typically Spain and Portugal. Both castles acted mainly as a resupply base for the British Army at war with Spain and Portugal during the early years of the 19th century. There is so much history here, it was hard to take it all in, in one day. So possibly tomorrow I shall visit the Castle of St. Mawes.
TUESDAY June 25th
FOWEY
Today I decided to take the challenge again and return to Fowey (pronounced FOY) as I mentioned in a previous post. I really liked this harbor-town once I manage the difficult walk down from the car park last week. Walking downhill on very steep pavement or stones proves a different challenge than climbing uphill with stairs etc. Different muscles, different kinds of pain. But it was a beautiful, cloudless, unusually warm day and a boat ride was definitely in the plan. The harbor lies at the estuary of the River Foy with many boats, both fishing and sail moored within its' body. It's a peaceful place to just sit amongst the many benches thoughtfully provided by the town just for this purpose. So as I approached the harbor, the boat that I took last week for a 45 minute harbor cruise was just about to leave with only 4 passengers aboard. So on I went, knowing it would be a most enjoyable ride. The captain was a different person from last week. This man spoke a lot less to us passengers affording more time in the peaceful quiet of the ride itself. AND he spoke clearer English that even I could understand. So the places we passed by and the owners therein, were clearly understood. Some were residents, popular British folk that others knew but not me. Mussels are a popular item on restaurants in this area and the vessel that captures them along this route was massive. The very large facility that processes and exports China Clay was in our reach from this boat. This processing facility of China Clay was mentioned in a previous post too. 100 million tons of clay per year was once passed through here on its' way to processing facilities; with approx. 80% used in the making of paper. But now the quantity of clay mined is reduced to about half.
Seeing the town of Fowey from the water view was extra special.
Once back on land, I headed via my phone's GPS to a place called "Captain Hank's Crab Shack". Sounded interesting and looked like a food truck with picnic tables. Fresh crab....yes please. But on the way I passed a restaurant offering seafood soup. Again..Yes please. So in I went; only to find out that the seafood soup was really only just another creamed soup. But on looking at the specials board, I see a 'Roast Gurnard" with new potatoes and green beans with a bouillabaisse sauce. Ordered it and was very pleased with this new fish called GURNARD. Once filleted, looks like Perch. Very delicious.
There were many antique shops here in Fowey; very interesting and fun to look in on. I headed back to where the van takes visitors back up the 'mountain' to the car park. The line was quite long and I would have to wait another 1/2 hour because this next van filled up with more waiting. So I thought I'd do it on foot. It's was hard and I had to stop a few times but I did it. Who ever said that exercise gives you energy? Well....I'm still waiting.
Beautiful, very warm day here in Cornwall
WEDNESDAY June 26th
Today I drove to St. Mawes Castle across the Fal River from Pendennis Castle in Falmouth. It was a beautiful day for just walking around the castle; not too many people and not a lot of climbing up hills to get to it. As castles go, it was very small but well kept; another of Henry VIII castles. He had 16 built in all. I don't think this castle had much action. It was built primarily as a restocking for other sites. Some letters were found, written from men who were assigned to St. Mawes and they said how lucky they were to have been assigned here. Life was fairly easy. After a day in the sun watching both under-sail and motor boats traveling in and out of the harbor, which was very enjoyable by the way, I drove to downtown St. Mawes, on the water. The road was the continuation of A3068 but it was really just a sidewalk. It's what the map and GPS said. I think I'm getting good at this city driving. There was NO parking anywhere in St. Mawes. Nothing. So I drove to Charlestown and finally had my long awaited seafood chowder. It was yummy
THURSDSAY June 27th
Today was just a relaxing day at the hotel. No driving, no walking. Just sit and read and sleep. Lots of sleep. This trip has been exhausting; physically and mentally. I have been always trying to avoid hitting someone or something. It's not just the hedgerows that scrape against my car. There have been a few instances where I'll be very slowly and carefully driving on a one lane road and a car will come right up to me, to the front of the car and wait there. All I can do is try very carefully to back up. Most people will pull over way before I get to them. And then there's always the people including children and DOGS. So driving I think takes a lot out a person. And then there's the ROUNDABOUTS. Some roundabouts are almost non-existant; Some are just bumps in the road. And when they put 2 bumps together and the lady on the GPS says 'at the roundabout, take the second exit', well let's just say I had some horns blown at me! But so far all is good on the driving debacle. Tomorrow is moving day...Back for 2 nights in Newquay.
